Most of my time in Mali is spent in the big city living with and serving the missionary community. However, my friend Lisa invited me to spend a day with her in a village as she is finishing up the photography project she was sent here for. I was excited to leave the city, even if just for a day, and get a taste of the “real Mali”.
With the pastors wife
While in the village, we stayed with a Christian pastor and his family. Time was spent sitting under the mango tree, drinking tea, preparing food, and living life. It was calm and refreshing… except for one thing.
About halfway through the afternoon, a man drives up in a moto with a large bag on the back. He hops off and tugs the bag to the ground. Curious as to what is in the bag we look over, and as it is opened a pig, still freshly killed, rolls out. Interesting. It is the first pig I have seen in Mali, because Muslims consider pigs unclean, and it was right in front of me.
Gabriel the pig
About an hour later two missionary friends show up. Apparently they had asked for a pig on their last visit and just today the hunter was able to catch one. They conversed with the family, and then had the pig skinned and packed up in the cooler they brought.
As the missionaries left, Lisa and I noticed they left the head and feet behind. The Malians seem to know that most white people do not share in the enjoyment of the head and feet. That being said, somehow we both know those could be our next meal. The process of mentally preparing myself to eat pig head began almost immediately.
The sons start a fire in one corner of the courtyard and pretty soon the head and feet and being cooked. Disgusted, yet fascinated, we watch the process of burning off the fur, and cooking the head.
Cooking the head
That night when dinner was served, I was shocked and excited to see that pig head was not on the menu! It looks like I am safe for now.
The next morning we sat down with the pastor to eat breakfast. One of the sons had gone and purchased bread, so I was looking forward to some rice and bread for breakfast. The pastor took the lid off the bowl and SURPRISE there was part of the pig head.
I silently gasped, looked at Lisa, and made the resolution “you have to at least try it”. We dug in. First we started with the juices. Soak bread in juice, place in mouth. Hey, that’s not too bad.
Then I watched as the pastor took a big piece of skin, pulled it off the bone and placed it in his mouth. I told myself “you can do this” and proceeded to do the same with a small piece of meat that was exposed with the skin removed. Hey, its not too bad. Kind of salty- actually tastes a lot like ham. Ok! I CAN do this.
For the next fifteen minutes I pick off small pieces of meat and cooked organs (the brain and tongue), place it on my bread and pop it in my mouth. It is actually quite tasty. Once I forget what I am eating that is.
We finish our bread, sit back and I am fairly satisfied! I did it! I ate the really disgusting looking food and actually liked it! Winner!
As if to congratulate me, the mother brings in a bowl of millet soup. It is tiny balls of millet cooked in lemon juice and honey. It was refreshing to wash down the salty pig with the sweet millet! YUM!
The rest of my day went equally as pleasant. We went to the market and enjoyed spending time with the family for the rest of the morning. What a great experience!
Walking back from the market